Andrew Jefford | Mid-gold. Very ginger-sweet and rich, yet with an aromatic architecture to it as well: luscious, spicy, full, almost truffley. That fungal complexity is what really brings the interest to this fine aromatic profile. On the palate, this is evidently an outstanding effort: dense, rich, saturated, powerful, a great roar of spice-furnace succulence, with a splendidly “mineral” aftertaste that takes us way beyond mere fruit and fruit sugars. Truly fine wine; truly unique. No acidity at all, but splendidly balanced nonetheless, with those extracts, that “mineral” note, and the divine faint bitterness that is another Gewurztraminer birthright. Chapeau! | 95

Charles Metcalfe | This has a very fresh, lemony aspect to the aromas. The palate is fresh, and the sweetness disguises the youth. There’s enough acidity to balance the sugar, though this is high. It’s like a big, floppy puppy at present, eager to please and a bit out of control. I’m not entirely sure the sweetness may not outbalance the rest, though. | 87

Jancis Robinson | Mid-golden straw. Very little on the nose. Full-bodied and opulent. Immediately makes me think of enjoying this with a range of spicy dishes please! Attractive bitter finish. So full and bursting with life. Lots of grip and masses of ripe fruit. Sweetish and gorgeous! So long and intense. Clean and absorbing. Truly spicy. Drink 2017–24. | 93