Andrew Jefford | Bright deep gold. Malty grains, but a little bit withdrawn and restrained in aromatic terms against the best of its peers. Generous sweetness on the palate, but touches of caramel and custard rather than stone, fruit, spice, and perfume. | 86

Charles Metcalfe | Golden, creamy, and mature, this has ripe, opulent aromas of barley sugar and candy. There’s an evolved toastiness as well, and a luscious, opulent texture. The wine is buoyed up by lively acidity, so the sugar goes almost unnoticed. The finish is toasty and creamy. A lovely wine to enjoy soon. | 91

Jancis Robinson | Bright gold. Heavy, rather sweaty nose. Very sweet and round. Lacks freshness. Rather reminds me of the Austrian Gewurzes of yore. Distinctly syrupy. Not refreshing. Falls apart. Drink 2014–16. | 85