Andrew Jefford | Filling out into a luscious gold. Buttered popcorn: generous and exuberant but unpolished and doesn’t plumb the recesses of varietal potential. Some spiced pear. Bottle 2: Even deeper in color, and with the same overall (attractive but unsubtle) blowsiness of scent. On the palate it is simple stu : moderate concentration and certainly at the end of its aging trajectory, though a fun drink. | 80

Charles Metcalfe | Beautiful, golden color. Opulent, exotic, and unctuous aromas, of litchis and cream. The palate is complex and delicious, and probably nearing its best. Acidity fully supports the sweetness, and suggests it could carry this further. But it’s lovely now, with rich, opulent flavors, buoyed up by this tremendous acidity. Very tempting now, although could age further. | 95

Jancis Robinson | Aggressively apricot color. Very big and blustery. Not fine, but this makes an impact! I asked for a second bottle to see whether it was any fresher. No! If anything, even heavier. And darker. Needs more finesse, however blustering it is. Drink 2015–18. | 86