Andrew Jefford | Pale steel-gold. Clean, soft litchi fruits but little evident spice. A touch dusty. Dry and rather sinewy palate, though long, with a little baked- apple fruit on the palate. Touch bitter on the finish. Fair at best, though drinkable. | 83

Charles Metcalfe | Hint of barley sugar on the nose, otherwise rather bland with a whi of aggressive alcohol. The dryness doesn’t really help this. It might have been more appealing with a few more grams of sugar! Acidity balances the alcohol adequately, but there’s little real perfume, and a slightly hot finish. | 78

Jancis Robinson | Mid-straw. Mid intensity of rose petal aroma. Slightly oily palate entry. Very savory finish and medium body. A distinctive style with some bite and freshness. Quite long. Confi dently di erent. Well made, but it rather fell apart in the glass. Drink 2013–20. | 87