Jamie Goode | Showing evolution on the nose, with iodine, mint, and medicine notes, as well as some ash. Malt and chocolate chip on the palate, with some warmth and a drying tannic finish. A bit all over the place, this hasn’t aged very well. | 84

Peter Richards | Distinctive, characterful initial feel. Dried meat, a hint of gunpowder and flint, the pepper on your steak. Very evocative and different. Intense on the palate, spicy, nervy, tons of energy and verve. Still has a way to go! Top Tannat often speaks more of the underworld—brimstone, undergrowth, and minerals rather than airy fruit and vegetation. This is a great example, with the complexing agency of age. Not for everyone, but impressive nonetheless. | 90

David Williams | Lacking in definition and with the fruit long gone, this is largely overseasoned oak and alcohol now; it’s noisy but without much substance. | 83