Victoria Daskal | Autumnal, decomposing leaves. Piercingly fresh acidity cuts through the ripe, sweet Sicilian lemon, dried herbs, and spiced quince. Extreme, concentrated, and slightly raucous, but then settles into a long, harmonious finish. | 96

Jamie Goode | Some herbal overtones, with keen lemony acidity and some structure. Quite dense and stony, and serious rather than playful. There’s a hint of sweetness, but it is ironed out by the acidity. Rather stern. | 91

Andrew Jefford | Bright pale gold. Fresh and lively; some oak here? Less expressive in terms of fruit and flowers than some, but a clean, bright, northern sappy white. On the palate, it is firm, dry, long, and classy; gastronomic. I can’t say the oak is overdone or misjudged, though it is the leading note for the time being. But I’m confident that time will bring complexity and perhaps some of the fugitive fruited charm from behind. | 91