Neil Beckett | The distinctive approach at Chanson, of which managing director Vincent Avenel is rightly proud and protective—a long cold-maceration, 100% whole-bunch, 30% new oak for the reds—is challenging, requiring ripe stems, but all the more rewarding when the vintage suits, as it certainly has in 2016. Deep ruby. A very elegant, expressive, floral (violet) nose. Dense and properly grippy, but there is a fine grain to the tannin, and the bitter chocolate and cherry flavors are already seductive. Like all the reds here, this will require, but richly reward, time, so for connoisseurs ready and savvy enough to wait for the pleasures in store. | 89