Neil Beckett | An aptly named, completely hors classe village wine from the quarry near Clos des Perrières, hence its more humble status, but it does share some of that top site's personality and scintillation. Intense lemon-gold. Lovely aromatic restraint and transparency, a cool sweet herbal character, but fully ripe, with well-integrated wood. Greater intensity and nervosité than the other village wines, if a little less mineral frisson than some other vintages, but perfectly pitched, taut rather than tight, with a very long, strong, straight finish. | 92