Neil Beckett | Deep ruby. Aérien fragrance: delicate, intricate, nuanced, darkly fruited, confit intensity, lightly earthy licorice, roseate lift, all exquisitely pure and so effortless that one has the feeling of breathing rather than sniffing. Equally effortless on the palate, with very finely layered silken tannin, gently expansive, magnificent scope, perfect harmony and symmetry, the acidity subtle but transformative, fresh but not at all shrill, through a graceful, tapering finish of deceptive length, like the sound of silence after the music stops and before the applause starts. A fittingly sleek new bottle, too. | 94