Andrew Jefford | Very deeply colored and youthful for its age. Rather minty on the nose, but some raspberry warmth beneath. Probably the best of the pensioner flight, in that the wine is deep, structured, rounded, and resonant, and the fruit is still recognizably Pinot. Nothing has gone wrong, and the acidity is under control: perfectly satisfactory drinking. I still, though, don’t get any sense that this well-made Pinot was really worth keeping... | 85

Anne Krebiechl | A touch of roast pumpkin adds earthiness to red fruit. There still is a hint of reduction, too. The palate is elegant and poised with freshness that defines the clear lines of tart, red fruit with an evolved character that is reminiscent of maple-syrup aromatics. There is a savory, earthy note that is as honest as it is alluring. Elegance, earthiness, and precision make for a disarming trio. | 96

Jancis Robinson | Dark crimson and luminous. Much bluer than you would expect at this age. Pungent and interesting on the nose. Racy and lively. Very smooth and appetizing, with the merest hint of cough medicine. Smooth tannins and subtle stuff. The first wine I have been tempted to swallow. Quite a bit of acidity, but not raw. A treat to taste this licorice-scented wine. Dry but not drying on the finish. 2014–20. | 94