Andrew Jefford | Clear, limpid garnet. Ground black pepper and sweet cherry: an attractive mix. Lively, with a dash of lime juice to set the cherries dancing; smooth- textured and mouthwatering. I’d probably chill this and use it as a white wine that happened to be red. Lots to enjoy, if viewed aright. | 88

Anne Krebiechl | There is something heady and sumptuous about the warm nose, something like cherry preserved in Kirsch. This appears like incredibly delicate fruit of strawberry held aloft on a structure of smoky tannin and fresh acidity. Edges of smoked meat appear, as do notions of pure, ripe cherry. There is nothing heavy about this, but there is depth. That visceral sense of smoked meat appears very strongly again on the finish. A very intriguing wine with strange staying power. | 94

Jancis Robinson | Mid-shaded garnet. Already has an attractive sweet fungal note. Good mid-weight and great balance. Very alluring, with just a hint of balsam. Already a great pleasure, with sufficient acidity to keep it fresh. Not sure this is a long-distance runner, but it’s certainly lovely now. There’s a certain delicacy and certainly some persistence. Bit of a dancer. 2017–24. | 90