Andrew Jefford | Deep black-red. Sweet and warm, but unfocused. Clean, as most are. Bright, acid-rinsed soft plum fruit, jingle-bellsing its way through the mouth, but I can see no real depth or glow or thrill of fruit here, though it is perfectly drinkable. | 84

Anne Krebiechl | The nose does not want to give too much away. There are mere hints of black cherry and a little freshly tanned leather. The palate has a juicy wealth of tart, dark fruits at its core but remains slender and tender, fresh and vivid. This is timid but charming, firm and fresh. | 92

Jancis Robinson | Healthy crimson. Very pale rim. Light beetroot nose. Lots of flirtatious fruit on the front palate. And pretty tight and austere on the end. More flesh, please! But it’s actually pretty charming in a lightweight ballerina sort of way and has impressive persistence and freshness. 2020–24. | 89