Andrew Jefford | Translucent red. Warm, oaky and tobacco scents; fine carpentry, but will there be enough fruit? The oak isn’t quite so evident on the palate, but the freshness and poise and flesh of the fruit has faded somewhat, and what remains is rather grimly acidic. Time to finish up. | 80

Anne Krebiechl | Leafy red fruit plays on the nose, then there is a touch of smoke. The palate is sprightly and fresh, vivid and pure. At its core there is ripe redcurrant, shimmering with lovely, peppery spice. Depth of fruit is evident and gets a perfect backdrop to play against in the tart, vivacious freshness of the palate. Very moreish. | 93

Jancis Robinson | Mid-ruby. Pale rim. Subtle, fragile but not dangerously so. A lovely vital drink now. Lots of autumn leaf subtlety. Long. Very fresh. Still vibrant. One of the longest of this selection. Bravo! 2016–23. | 93