Andrew Jefford | Clear dark red. Oddly unattractive aromas at first sniff, with a note of sweet decay and rather evident oak. Tart and faintly bitter on the palate, though the oak brings a sweetness, too; what’s missing is ringing central-palate fruit. Drinkable, but there are wines from its peers in which the fruit core has been better handled. | 82

Anne Krebiechl | A touch of dried pine needle on the nose, as well as a touch of smoke. Fragrant. Red fruit lurks through a veil of finely knit tannin, which has pleasant grip, but there is also something meaty, very substantial and rounded at the core. Fullness is evident, and there is almost a bacon edge to the red forest fruit, lending a kind of rustic charm. Lingers on the palate. | 93

Jancis Robinson | Mid-garnet. Mild sweetness on the nose. Quite firm tannins and bracing acidity. Still very youthful. Embryonic and still a little callow. Lots to chew on. Very clean, but it has not yet evolved much flavor. Very grainy finish. 2020–26. | 88