Andrew Jefford | Deeply colored but showing its age in its hue. Another wine with strange hyacinth aromas. Smooth, structured, quite deep, and in good shape for a Spätburgunder of its age; it came of course from a very ripe summer, and there is plenty of tannin to stiffen its sinews. But for me there is little charm; it’s a doughty survivor. | 77

Anne Krebiechl | Very full-fruited, evolved nose of earthiness, recalling roast pumpkin and maple syrup. The palate continues with this earthiness but has a fine frame of bright acidity and a lovely, grippy texture. This is more than alive and still evolving, aromatic and ripe, maturing and present. That roast-pumpkin note appears again on the finish, pervaded by ample freshness. Very long. | 95

Jancis Robinson | Mid- to deep crimson—looks much more youthful than many younger wines. Obviously old but not over the hill. Big and bold and massive- beefy and still very much alive. Well done! Quite savory and appetizing. I’d love to know the identity of this Peter Pan of a wine! Just a bit smudgy and hot on the end, but by no means dead. 2008–18. | 89