Neil Beckett | As exciting a wine as I can remember tasting here, and very exciting by any standard, even for the cru and the year. Luminous medium-deep ruby. A beautiful, enigmatic, intricate scent: cherry, kirsch, light cocoa, subtle spice, seductive rose, a touch of white pepper (100% stems, but only positive traces of them, and only 30% new oak, which seems neither too little nor too much). Equally sublime on the palate: effortlessly expansive, but remains densely and richly layered, seamless top to bottom, with great depth but a sense of having been built from the top down, as the great pyramids were once supposed to have been. | 95