Neil Beckett: Pale gold, with an authentic luster and good reflèt. Serious and striking to smell—much more earth and minerals than fruit per se. But subtle greengage fruit is also there, together with a light woodsmoke that Bernard Hervé finds typical of high, stony sites. Dense, fine, and tight-knit on the palate, with strong underlying minerality. The wood is still a shade dry on the finish but should integrate. 15.5