Joanna Simon | Lovely perfume—delicate leafiness, fresh peach, and soaring toasted hazelnut. Rich but taut palate, with a hint of apricot and mocha adding to the allure and complexity and a fine acid frame bringing it all together. From the 21-are Cabotte parcel next to Bouchard’s Montrachet holding, it is aged in the same way: 12–13 months in barrel, 15% new. More convincing than the straight Chevalier-Montrachet, which was fleshy enough but didn’t seem to have its usual grip. | 92