Bruno Besa | Garnet to pale orange. Clean nose, a touch simple, with herbs and small red fruits. Medium body, balanced tannins, and a clean finish. | 87

Stephen Brook | Smoky, tarry nose. Sleek attack, initially polished and polite, but then the tannins creep up on the mid-palate. This strikes me as quirky and disjointed, with a gawky finish, though it may well settle down with more time. Right now, it seems effortful. Long, chewy finish. | 86

Andrew Jefford | Deep, earthy red. Glowing and secondary, with some of the cream, vellum, and cèpe notes that make aged Barolo such a pleasure already acquired. Some oak, too? But it’s no disqualification: satisfying and enticing. Vivid, soft, generous, and long, with much lower, more understated acidity than many of its peers: truly picked at full ripeness. At the same time, there is nothing at all overripe or clumsy or stodgy here; it’s a wonderfully open-pored, scrutable wine, gentle, graceful, and refined in its articulations. Excellent work. | 92