Simon Field | An unusual nose, fennel and aniseed, its promise carried on to the palate, which is crisp, linear, and very much in the mold of this vintage, elegant, supple, and intriguingly different, the grip on the back palate ensuring confidence in staying power and a refreshing herbal mid-palate effortlessly boasting all that is good about this underappreciated vintage (for white wines). | 89

Andrew Jefford | Full gold. Blossomy but rather earthy on the nose to begin with; after a while, it acquires some floral lift, grapey fullness, and autumnal complexity (quince). On the palate, it is full, broad, and structured, with plenty of ripe acidity to balance: a very good wine that avoids the rather rigid edges and dry firmness of [Domaine Roger Sabon Renaissance 2015], the most obvious comparison. Nonetheless, Clairette, for all its historical credentials, is always going to offer a very different (and more secondary and “old-fashioned”) experience than the other key varieties, and in the end, my feeling is that it is probably best as a blending component. | 91

John Livingstone-Learmonth | Firm yellow robe. Exotic fruit aromas line the bouquet, litchi and mango, and a hum of florality underneath. It’s on the move toward amplifying and changing from its full youth. The palate has a crab apple, smoky flavor, with fine detail in its late stages: a real, good clarity there. This has a little of the red-fruits appeal that chimes with its grape variety well. It would be great with some soft cheeses, Brie de Meaux and friends, also Szechuan cuisine. Marks for character. To 2026/28. | 89