Simon Field | Burnished gold color, looking quite mature, its nose dominated by gently roasted almonds, hawthorn, and hints of grapefruit. The palate is broad, indulgent, and ultimately a little disappointing: Roussanne is more persuasive in the delivery than in the message. | 85

Andrew Jefford | Full old gold in color. Very rich and honeyed— indeed, frankly malty, too. The oxygen has crept in along the way and it wouldn’t last long on an Aussie tasting bench, but I rather enjoy the broad-chested, bedecked splendor, though it is “old-style.” On the palate, it’s just as the aromas suggested it would be: a big, chewy, dripping honeycomb of a wine, which derives a considerable proportion of its complexity from some oxidation. But it’s lovely! And grand and structured, and the fruit is terrific. Set prejudice aside, and enjoy. | 91

John Livingstone-Learmonth | Sturdy yellow robe. The nose is filled with ripe, coated white fruits, and has an overlay that is almost like butterscotch. It’s dumb, not varied, for now. The palate bears stylish content, which prolongs safely and quietly. This is extremely elegant, well-shaped white Châteauneuf, for patient cellaring and serving with noble cuisine, sauces involved. It’s got a handsome intricacy and will reward close attention when drinking it. 2019–28/31. | 92