Simon Field | An unusual example from such a ripe year, its limelight acidity piercing with questions of authenticity and overwhelming expectation; far from typical and far from agreeable. | 83

Andrew Jefford | Full yellow-gold. A slightly muddled aroma, without the pristine finesse of the best. Wonderfully commanding and concentrated wine on the palate, though: truly arresting, and surely one of the titans of the tasting in pure- power-play, old-vine (?)—or at least low-yield— terms. The marking challenge is that there is not a lot of aromatic grace, charm, or finesse here; it just throbs and quivers out over the palate and is not lifted by much in the way of scented nuance. A beast of a wine, then, but sensational and very, very good. | 92

John Livingstone-Learmonth | Shiny yellow. The nose is a little musty, declares greengage plum, with a gravel-beach backdrop and some dried fruits such as apricot. The palate gives a tangy flavor that combines nectarine and apricot, brings in some saltiness toward the finish. It’s a streamlined, confident production that is perhaps a little arm’s length in its delivery. 2018–26/28. | 88