Stephan Reinhardt | Playful nose with hints of litchi and orange grove, the edge of the tropics. The palate betrays a relatively recent fermentation, beyond which there are grilled almonds and hints of pineapple. Exoticism is tempered by the acidity of the Clairette and the ensemble is heady without being out of balance, rich without losing structure, oak evidenced at this stage but destined not to assert too much, one feels. | 88

Andrew Jefford | Full gold. There’s a slight aromatic heaviness here; it doesn’t quite have the fragrant lift of the best of its peers. After some time in the glass, though, an attractive balsam-like sweetness emerges, and it begins to find some apricot- blossom intricacy. In the mouth, this is soft, rich, warm, firm, with plenty of generosity and some apricot lift. A good white Châteauneuf-du-Pape, overall. | 89

John Livingstone-Learmonth | Yellow robe. Salted, citrus first airs on the nose; white plum and peach are also here. The palate shows dried fruits, has grip and a late focus on tangy content. It’s not an ensemble just yet, is in a low-key phase, perhaps post bottling. The finish bears some southern depth, has a ground force, so this can run on with further time. To 2023/24. | 88