Simon Field | A flowery nose complemented by litchi and ginger stem, with hints of bacon rind and marzipan far from obtrusive as they frame the ensemble. Feminine and rather playful, an interesting and almost lifted example, its rather distinctive, almost grapey personality a worthy if unusual addition to the canon. | 88

Andrew Jefford | Mid-gold. Sweet, warm, and beguiling: a hum of aroma rather than 16-voice polyphony, but enjoyable. In the mouth, this is very concentrated, long, vivid, sinewy, very firm, and well rounded, rather ancient in style (thanks to the fascinating Clairettes), without a huge amount of aromatic finesse. In its place, though, you get that thrust, that flavory stump, that irreducibility, that power and force of character and that less familiar charm. There is some bright balancing acidity; it has real length, and I don’t rule out more aromatic articulacy lifting from the wine in due course. The drawback is that there is a dry sharpness to the wine. | 88

John Livingstone-Learmonth | Shiny yellow robe. Crab apple and soft floral scents make for an appealing bouquet; there is a white-pepper smokiness with it, and an inner depth, not yet fulfilled. The palate is also smoky, and direct, fuelled by peach flavors, nectarine. It grips safely and well on the finish. A wine with cards still to play—be patient, and decant it if in a hurry. The second half of the palate is wholesome. To 2026/28. | 88