Simon Field | Slightly dusty nose; this blows off quickly and behind are aromas from the hayloft, with citric poise and almond subtext. The palate has a slight spritz but plenty of matière and panache. Slightly raw on the finish, assertive and fulsome. | 89

Andrew Jefford | Very pale steel gold. Gentle nougatine nose; needs plenty of aeration to rouse it into articulacy. Sinewy and sappy on the palate, with some acid balance and glycerol, too. It’s a firmer wine than the nose led one to expect, and decidedly vinous, but without much intricacy or finesse. Satisfying, nonetheless. | 87

John Livingstone-Learmonth | fine yellow robe. A cooked lemon aroma is set in a spritely nose, butter and soft spring flowers; saltiness and greengage are also present. The palate has a light tread, is sculpted for apéritif and steamed cuisine. It’s what I term “new wave” with elegance and a relative lack of local body on the agenda. The finish brings in some dried fruits. It could have more character and is unconvincing. To 2021/22. | 85