Stephen Brook: Charming floral nose, with a lot of spice. Minerally, sherbetty. Good attack on the palate, plenty of upfront fruit, firm underlying acidity. A slightly austere style, with a mineral tang on the finish. Stylish and long, but not everyone will appreciate the element of tartness. lS

Jancis Robinson: Relatively broad and creamy - this wine might appeal to white Burgundy enthusiasts. There is some quite pungent smoky minerality. A great deal is packed into this wine, which is Still pretty youthful. Since this truly is bone dry, it is one for converts, please note. Still slightly astringent. 15

Alexander Scott: Slightly reductive, but correct. No great personality, rather restrained, but taut and properly made. Will it open up? Tentative score. 14