Stephen Brook: Closed nose. Rich, broad, quite weighty, even fleshy, but with good underlying acidity that jars on the aftertaste. There's good fruit, but it's not yet integrated with the acidity. Lively but jagged, and with a long, minerally finish. 15

Jancis Robinson: Racy and lifted with very refined aromas. Tightknit, strait-laced and any other haberdashery simile you care to mention. Quite powerful on the finish, but no suggestion of heat. 16

Alexander Scott: Clean, slightly herbal perhaps. Keswick Codlin, for cognoscenti of Britain's best cooking apples. Lively palate with some sustained interest, though perhaps I don't find obvious terroir expression. Very vigorous finish of great clarity and surprising tenacity. Good, classic Riesling. 15.5