Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: A seriously crafted, classically made wine, with macerated red-berry aromas and spicy, resinous tannins. Lacks the substance of the Léovilles, however. 15.5

Margaret Rand: A medium-weight wine with classic lead-pencil flavour and some delicacy – though with a firm structure underneath. The finish is long, and it’s very attractive. 16.5

Michael Schuster: Clear, minerally, pebbly scent; very nicely balanced wine, with classic middleweight St-Julien proportions and fine, dry tannin. Ripe, sappy, savoury blackcurrant Cabernet flavour, elegant, quite complex, and a long, firmly tannic finish. Very good medium- to long-term Langoa. 15.5+