Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: As usual, a very well-crafted wine, with a strict but delicate and spicy nose and a precise, elegant, utterly classical texture. The freshness of the Cabernet is very much in evidence. 16

Margaret Rand: There’s good silky, peppery fruit here – and concentration, too. The balance is very good, and it has a polished air. 16.5

Michael Schuster: Refined, sweet cassis and mineral nose. Rich, elegantly balanced, finely tannic middleweight. A ripe, fleshy core of fruit: blackcurrant Cabernet and Merlot plumminess; long, complex, fine textured and with excellent, fragrant length. A lovely, sappy, scented Margaux. 16