Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Quite 2004 with its contrasting ripe fruit nose (even showing those chocolaty notes typical of hot years) and rather rough tannins. Complete and very sound, thanks to lovely vinosity, but not as refined as some of its neighbours. 15

Margaret Rand: The fruit is pretty and peppery, and the balance is good, but it seems slightly dilute; not surprising in this year of huge yields. 15

Michael Schuster: Generous middleweight, fresh and quite firmly tannic, but with a fleshy, ripe-fruit flavour. Long, juicy, scented and quite complex. A good Cantenac-Brown – a bit muscular for the moment and will certainly need time. 15.5