Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Another handsome wine from this château, now masterfully managed by Bernard Magrez and his technical whizz kids. Glorious colour, liquorice aromas of lush fruit, firm but plump tannins, super persistence. A wine that expresses its terroir and especially its personality to the full. Let’s hope that overoaking in the course of development doesn’t spoil its well-nigh perfect balance. 16

Margaret Rand: This needs time: the balance is there, and so are the tannins, and there’s enough lead-pencils fruit to back them up. The length is decent. 15