Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Not quite the shape and smoothness of La Mission but just as sure-footed if not more so in terms of aromatic definition. Comes complete with that whiff of creosote that is to be expected in wines from this terroir. 16.5

Margaret Rand: Fleshier than its stablemates and with plenty of tannins and fruit, plus a very long finish. Great concentration and density. 18.5

Michael Schuster: Difficult to assess this, in the Haut-Brion group line-up. It is 60% Merlot and 38% Cabernet Franc and practically no Cabernet Sauvignon this year. And for me that does seem to have robbed it of its usual ‘heart’, its fruit core. Medium-full, firmly tannic, slightly severe balance. Restrained ripe fruit to taste, which does hold up well on the palate and has a gentle minerality behind it, and good fruit persistence, too. Good, but atypical for the cru. 15.5?