Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: A serene, regal but not overdone Laville of a quality to rival the finest Montrachets. This is a wine that sets the benchmark for excellence in great Bordeaux white wines. The nose has a gossamer delicacy, with none of those overstated varietal aromas seen in so many – too many – of the Graves classed growths. The palate is fleshy, long and exquisitely refined, expressing fat, intensity, freshness and class. Developing notes of acacia honey remain forever in the mouth without the least trace of heaviness. 19

Margaret Rand: An exotic wine of peaches and apricots, firm, structured and tight, high acidity and a citrus finish. A keeper – and has the tight, closed structure of young, good Semillon. 18.5

Michael Schuster: Pale lemon. Very Sauvignon to smell at the moment (it is 83% Semillon, and the wax and honey will develop later); lively, moderately concentrated middleweight, very elegantly balanced; long and racy, with a ripe, almost grapey flavour but also considerable complexity and with excellent aromatic length. A fine linear Laville with good prospects. 17+