Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Pale colour, with a very delicate and fresh nose, lightly brushed with acacia honey. Full palate showing a lively snap of acidity. Great length, equally great potential and, all in all, a stunning new success. It has all the character of great white wines as they used to be. 16

Margaret Rand: A big, rich wine, quite one-dimensional at the moment, but with fresh, nutty fruit and some oak. 15