Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: One of the most resounding successes of the vintage: ultra-refined nose and silky, irresistibly seductive tannins, with an evident perfection not seen in any other wine from this sector. Cabernet Franc and Merlot are here in proportions that perfectly express the spirit of the terroir. It may not acquire the density of the 1998, but for sheer purity and aromatic nuance it will be hard to rival. Love at first sight! 19

Margaret Rand: Elegant and complex with utterly seductive silkiness and complexity. Tannins very ripe. Lovely firm structure and a coffee note to the fruit. Very classic and fascinating. 19.5

Michael Schuster: Deep purple; closed on the nose as yet; rich, fresh middleweight in a fairly firm style. Tautly defined Cheval Blanc with ripe fruit and creamy oak to taste, a long and close-knit mid-palate; gently fleshy, discreetly mineral and with good length. Not a sumptuous Cheval, and certainly not another 2000! Instead a fine, linear expression of the terroir, but less rich than its immediate Pomerol neighbours in this vintage, for example. 17.5