Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Highly successful. Great colour. Full, aristocratic nose, with all the spice and truffles you could wish for; perfect body and good persistence, supported by ultra-classy tannins. Exquisitely constructed, but especially delightful for its complete lack of pretence. 17

Margaret Rand: Lush, fleshy, perfumed, ripe and supple; real St-Emilion fruit, and very long finish. 18

Michael Schuster: Black red. Dense, sweet, ripe black-cherry and new-wood vanilla nose. Concentrated medium-full wine with a lively acidity and firm oak tannins. Rich, very sweet-cored, sappy flavour; a bit hot in alcohol, moderately complex and with good length. But I’m not sure I ‘get’ this. A small glass with cheese, instead of Port, is what comes to mind, rather than a refreshing draught with the main course. 15