Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Alongside the Laville-Haut-Brion, this is by far the most stylish, most convincing Bordeaux white to be produced this vintage. Terrifically smooth and long, sprinkling lightly honeyed nuances among delicate tones of flowers, citrus and minerals. Density is equally impressive, and the finish is positively dazzling, radiating freshness. 18.5

Margaret Rand: Rich and balanced, withatouch of warm spice and a touch of alcohol on the finish – and it’s 14.5%. Powerful. 17.5

Michael Schuster: Pure Sauvignon Blanc. Ripe gooseberry and guava fruit under cedary new oak on the nose. A rich, generous, ripe-fruited wine beautifully defined by a refreshing, vital acidity. Juicily ripe, but clearly Sauvignon Blanc to taste, silky textured, succulently fruity, long in the mouth and with a clear background minerality. Superb length. A great Pavillon Blanc. 18