Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Pale colour, subtle, already well-integrated oak, moderately roasted but a notably refined flavour, culminating in a long finish with all the thoroughbred complexity of a wine in the purest tradition of Barsac. 15

Margaret Rand: Peaches, apricots and roasted nuts, rich and honeyed – and properly sweet. Concentrated, with a long, confident finish. 17

Michael Schuster: Quite concentrated, lively medium-weight – very nice balance. Fairly sweet, but with a distinct minerality under the sugar and a marked, lemony freshness. Good length, very nice. 15.5+