Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Another one of our favourites this vintage, and already fully developed. The wine showed superb fullness and harmony, combined with a regal balance of botrytised and raisined grapes that together produce a freshness and finesse of aroma that is quite beyond compare. Length is no less impressive. 19

Margaret Rand: Peachy fruit, rich and fresh, but not huge sweetness. 15.5

Michael Schuster: Dense, citrus and oak-cedar nose. Rich, medium-full wine with a vigorous acidity; intensely sweet, lemon and barley-sugar flavour, and fairly complex. Quite racy and with good length, in the style of the best 2004s, namely richness and vivacity. Perhaps not quite up to its ’01 or ’03? 17