Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Rich and densely syrupy in the traditional style of recent vintages. Destined for long ageing. 16.5

Margaret Rand: A big, rich wine, closed and tight on the palate, but with a finish that promises well. 17.5

Michael Schuster: Dense, citrussy nose. Rich, concentrated, unctuous yet vigorous wine. Intensely sweet, almost ‘thick’ in texture; long, clinging, lemon barley-sugar flavour of great intensity; quite complex and well defined by its acidity. Very sweet and very good, if not quite the class of the very best here. 17