Oz Clarke: Rather big oaky nose withatouch of reduction and smoke. (Okay.) It has a slightly bitter quality to it and the finish is a little disappointing. It’s a perfectly nice, fullish, reasonably oaky style, but finally a little hollow. 14

Alex Hunt: Terrific fruit expression on the nose: complexity, purity, generosity and restraint. Genuine counterpoint. Raw acid points to this wine’s youth, but the length and power of the finish suggest a glorious evolution. Magisterial stuff. 18.5

Margaret Rand: Coffee and prune fruit, quite a whack of tannin with soft fruit. Slightly odd combination. Appealing, very drinkable, but doesn’t quite sing. Length is respectable but not outstanding. 15