Oz Clarke: Rather big, stewy nose and just a hint of Bakelite plastic. It’s quite tannic, but there is some reasonably good stewy fruit there. Stewed plums and stewed cherry fruit is okay and just about copes with the tannin, because there is pepper and rich plum there and decent oak coconut. Powerful, rich, a little aggressive, but the richness copes. 17

Alex Hunt: Beautiful pure fruit aromas. A quite sturdy palate, with alcohol and acid contributing to a burning sensation. I hope this subsides, because there is a lot of depth and interest here. 16

Margaret Rand: Cooked fruit, soft, loose-knit, pronounced tannins with a hard edge. Neither exciting nor hugely successful. 13.5