Oz Clarke: Fairly deep dark red. Big, round, fat chocolaty style. Deep, oaky, rich, not very distinct – there’s a sort of globalised chocolate coating to the wine that swaddles the ripe, chubby fruit. It’s a pretty good drink, in its solid oaky way, but I think the oak and fruit tannins do rather suffocate the Cabernet character. A little mint and clove and blackcurrant do peek out at the end, gasping for fresh air. 15

Alex Hunt: High toast on the barrels coming through, perhaps exacerbated by a sulphury smokiness, which rather hides the fruit. The structure of this wine is well tuned, but the flavour is rendered stern and oversavoury. Very gravelly, quite Bordeaux-like wine that probably comes into its own with food. 14

Margaret Rand: Tarry, creosote nose and palate. It’s a little bit of a one-note wine and could do with the fruit being filled out with a bit of something else. The texture is good – silky and refined – and the structure is good, and it would work well with food. I like it, but in spite of the expansive tannins, that leanness to the flavour gives it a curiously austere feeling. 16.5