Oz Clarke: Full, quite rich but indistinct fruit and spice. Fairly solid tannin, deep but not thrilling – how often have I written that? – with fairly aggressive tannin. It’s a quite full, solid red without any great charm. 15.5

Alex Hunt: Inky, Porty style. Very grainy tannins, flat dried-out fruit; lacks vigour and freshness. 12.5

Margaret Rand: Tannic, muscular, sturdy stuff. A long, burly finish. There’s a lot of tannin at the moment, and it will take some time, but it has the concentration of fruit to last. It’s not elegant – more like a nightclub bouncer – but it seems to know what it’s about. 16