Stephen Brook: Opaque red. A hint of overripeness on the nose, perhaps deriving from the high proportion (for Pauillac) of Merlot? But the black fruits do emerge clearly, with a touch of lead pencil to perk them up. Rich, voluptuous, seductive, concentrated, and what at first seems like softness is moderated by substantial tannic grip, so that it finishes more robustly than it begins. What it may lack is a little acidity and bite, but there’s no lack of structure or flavor. Should develop well. 17

Andrew Jefford: Dense black-red. Curranty and warm, with unusual aromatic complexity and refinement: tea leaf, petitgrain, bourgeon de cassis. True second-growth nose-class here. Soft, deft, graceful, and charming, built on a core of beguilingly ripe fruit (cherry, cassis, plum). There is, nonetheless, a considerable tannic charge that will carry the wine at least into mid-years. The finish is more complex, close-grained, and peppery than the opening palate suggested; indeed the finish (old-vine Verdot?) is positively tight. Magnificently complete, from first aromatic enchantment to final tannic tongue squeeze. 17.5

Michael Schuster: Softly, seductively ripe oak and blackcurrant fruit to smell; rich, ample, generous, and firmly tannic wine. Abundant fruit; long, juicy, and fleshy within the firmly tannic frame; complex, aromatic, and refined, with a long, spicy finish. Long-term Pichon-Lalande, but full of promise. A lovely 2004! 2015–30+. 17.5