Alison Buchanan: Oaky again – what joy! Something unusual on the nose almost indicates some freshness but is lying. Buttery, slightly rancid notes come though on palate. Nasty. 8

Nicolas Belfrage: Lighter, brighter presentation than the Isole e Olena. Very fine acidity, and nice balance between fruit, flavour and concentration – that is, it drinks, and probably has time to go, though it falls away a bit at the back. 15

Alex Hunt: This seems to have received the Chablis treatment: lots of lees work but no new oak. It works pretty well, the vigour of riper fruit making up for the lack of steely intensity. Concentrated yet understated, this is a harmonious and surprising success. 16