Alison Buchanan: Very brilliant yellow-gold, glycerol rich. Cripes, what a nose: overripe pineapple, stewed apple and varnish dominant. Unsure of what to expect on the palate after the nose, but what it delivers is a certain rich, honeyed melange of apple and tropical fruit. But it’s ultimately rather dull. Slightly flabby, it just lacks spark. 12

Nicolas Belfrage: Quite marked yellow. A little flat on the nose, a little heavy in the mouth; good viscosity but slightly low acid. Creamy texture saves it, aromas not exciting. 13.5

Alex Hunt: Resplendently golden, and extrovert on the nose, too, with a slightly oxidative fruit character backed up by spice and rubber. Big and brash on the palate, with obvious alcohol, this is impressive but quite hard work. 14