Alison Buchanan: Deep old yellow-gold. Nose not exactly tempting but thinking of the Nicolas Joly I tasted… and regretted. 1

Nicolas Belfrage: Totally atypical golden hue for a Gavi. Heavy non-fruity nose and acid-fruit balance way out. Poor example. A pity that Gavi should be represented here by this. 10

Alex Hunt: Thickly honeyed aroma, and more life and lift on the palate than I was expecting. This is certainly mature, but it has taken on a herbal flavour like some old Semillons can do – and it is still harmonious. It tires quickly in the glass, though. 12.5