Andrew Jefford: A very different aromatic style to Drouhin-Laroze’s two deftly fruity Chambertins, this wine’s scents are elegantly creamy, with fine notes of resin and petitgrain lending the teasingly muted fruit a perfumer’s allure. On the palate, this has great wealth of fruit and an imposing tannic presence, yet all is artfully concealed and subsumed beneath its billowing, cape-like elegance and soft spice.