Andrew Jefford: Dark, saturated colours, with pretty, perfumed, raspberry scents backed withatouch of tar. Dense, taut, close-knit, almost chewy flavours, which will need much longer than usual to unlock, unfold and expand. Once again, the tannic structure is worryingly dry: will the tannins bond with the fruit in time, providing the wine with power or endurance, or will they remain as disconcertingly obtrusive as they are at this stage?